Cabernet Franc is emerging as one of Niagara’s leading grapes
Cabernet Franc is finally getting the recognition it so rightfully deserves, after years of being in the shadow of two more prominent Bordeaux grapes, namely Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Cabernet Franc not only predates these varietals but it’s the unassuming parent grape to both. It is also the only non-native Bordeaux varietal as its birthplace is the Basque Country in northern Spain. It was brought into France sometime in the 17th century and planted predominantly in Bordeaux’s Right Bank and in the Loire Valley where it flourished. To this day France remains the largest producer of Cabernet Franc. In the Loire Valley it is vinified as a single varietal and bottled under the regional names of Chinon and Bourgeil while in Bordeaux it is used in some of the region’s most iconic blends.
Today, Cabernet Franc is grown in many other countries across the world, most notably Italy, Hungary, Argentina, California and Canada. In most winemaking regions, Cabernet Franc plays a supportive role in blends with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot often being cast as the leading characters. It performs the supportive role exceptionally well for its ability to contribute elegance, finesse and aromatic intensity to the finished wine. In fact, it is often regarded as a winemaker’s secret spice, adding peppery, earthy and floral aromas to the wine along with a fine backbone of acidity. But while Cabernet Franc is a brilliant blending grape, it can also produce stunning varietal-bottled wines. Ontario is one of the few places in the world where Cabernet Franc is being produced as a single varietal wine with remarkable results.
In Ontario, Cabernet Franc is the most planted red grape variety with 4,467 tonnes produced in 2018, representing nearly 12% of total vinifera grape production that year (Source: Grape Growers of Ontario). This varietal is perfectly suited to the region’s cool climate as it is very tolerant to cold and ripens consistently (typically one to two weeks before Cabernet Sauvignon), offering winemakers more dependability in terms of production. Its versatility makes it even more appealing as it can be vinified in a number of styles including dry single varietal wines, blends (i.e. Meritage), rosé and even icewine.
In recent years, Niagara is quietly emerging as a preeminent producer of Cabernet Franc, offering wines of great complexity and finesse. They are typically medium to full-bodied on the palate, with bright acidity, firm but not overpowering tannins, and showcasing aromas of dark fruits, raspberry, white pepper, violets, along with earthy and herbal notes. The elegance and restrained character of this varietal is attracting an ever-growing fan-base; in fact, there has been a real surge in popularity of cool climate Cabernet Francs in recent years. Many wine drinkers are gravitating toward food-friendly wines that can pair with a variety of dishes, and Cabernet Franc certainly fits the bill. Due to its firm framing, palate cleansing acidity, savoury and herbaceous character, Cabernet Franc is incredibly versatile and can pair with a variety of foods including tomato-based dishes, roast chicken or pork, beef, lamb, hard and soft cheeses and much more. In fact, due to its grassy notes it can also work well with green foods, making it an excellent wine to have on hand during the holidays when meals often include a multitude of side dishes and an array of flavours.
There is no better time to raise a glass to this amazing grape than today as December 4th is Cabernet Franc day. I think we can all agree that after years of staying under the radar, Cabernet Franc has certainly earned its own special holiday. And whether you have always loved this varietal or have only recently discovered it, below are some wonderful examples from the Niagara-on-the-Lake appellation that will undoubtedly make you appreciate it even more.
Château des Charmes, 2016 Cabernet Franc, St. David's Bench Vineyard, $34.95 - Cabernet Franc is one of Niagara’s signature grape varieties and this is an excellent example of how it can be made into a complex wine with aging potential. It’s ruby coloured, with flavours of raspberry and pipe tobacco. Although this wine is ready to drink, it will continue to develop in the bottle for 5-10 years. Available at the winery and online.
The Hare Wine Co., 2017 Crown Land Red Cabernet Franc, $28 - Wines in the Crown Land Series pay tribute to the founding farm settlers that were, by petition, deeded our agricultural lands. After spending 9 months in oak, this Cabernet Franc shows elegant notes of black cherry, vanilla and spice. A food friendly wine with soft velvety tannins and a lingering finish. Available at the winery.
Marynissen Estates Winery, 2017 Gold Series Cabernet Franc, $17.95 - Fruit was chosen from select vineyards in Niagara, including our home farm, to create this classic cool-climate Cabernet Franc. Processed and fermented in stainless steel with 28 days in maceration, followed by 8 months in new and used French and American oak. The delectable result is a wine with warm aromas of baking spices, cedar, and cranberries followed by a big, bold, and beautiful palate with elegant, layered tannin and a long, spicy finish. Available at the winery and online.
Palatine Hills Estate Winery, 2017 Wild & Free Cabernet Franc, $29.95 - This single vineyard Cabernet Franc from Palatine Hills is an homage to its terroir along the Niagara-on-the-Lake Lakeshore. This complex, medium-bodied Cabernet Franc offers a dynamic bouquet and tantalising mid palate of red plum with a hint of crushed gravel. Drinks exceptionally now but patiently cellaring for 2-5 years will pay off. Available at the winery and online.
Peller Estates, 2017 Private Reserve Cabernet Franc, $23.95 - Harvested both from estate owned Carlton Vineyard and from our long-standing growers in the Niagara Peninsula. Fermented on skins for 14 days and aged for 12 months in 70% French oak and 30% American oak barrels (25% new oak, 75% older oak) with full malolactic fermentation. Deep garnet in colour with a wonderful aromatic bouquet of black cherry, currant, licorice, dried herbs, forest floor and cigar box. This Cabernet Franc is medium to full-bodied, with silky tannins and moderate acidity. Available at the winery and online.
Stratus, 2016 Stratus Weather Report Cabernet Franc, $29 - Classic Cabernet Franc cigar-box aromatics team up with overt cassis, dried wild blueberry and forest-floor flavours. Dense and intriguing, this wine expresses the ripeness of the vintage and lingers with its youthful and chewy tannins. Available at the winery and online.
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