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Modern Travel - Basking in the Bay of Quinte

Summer is here and that means road trip season is in full swing!
We decided that our first seasonal adventure for 2022 would be a couple of hours east of the city to the beautiful Bay of Quinte region. Over a few days and few hundred kilometres, we explored the region, found adventure, created memories, deliciously dined, stumbled upon gems, and thoroughly enjoyed our time together.
Here’s what we did, where we did it and encourage you to experience the area for yourself sooner than later.

Brighton

Presqu'ile Provincial Park
On the shores of Lake Ontario is picturesque Presqu'ile Provincial Park, blending 2km of beaches, nearly 20 km of trails, over 300 car camping sites and the marvellous marsh boardwalk trail that lets you access a protected marsh. It’s also home to a 69 foot high lighthouse built in 1840 and is the second oldest operating lighthouse in Ontario.
The drive through the park is spectacular as it weaves through heavily wooded areas and along the shore. It’s also a prime destination for observing bird migration and whether you're happier on land or in the water, this popular park has something for nearly everyone.

Downtown Brighton
Brighton is the closest town to Presqu’ile, and it’s the first you encounter in the Bay of Quinte region when approaching from the west. Both the town and its main shopping district are small relative to others nearby, but that only adds to the charm. A stroll through Willow Lifestyle Boutique reveals a well-curated selection of women’s clothing and accessories, many of which are made in Canada, set among specialty soaps and nature-themed artwork and wall hangings. A treat from the ice cream stand outside would hit the spot on warmer days. If caffeine is in order, head across the street to Lola’s Café for a wide selection of beverages and treats, including tasty gluten-free and vegan options.

Quinte West

The Bleasdell Boulder Conservation Area.
The Bleasdell Boulder Conservation Area houses one of North America’s most sizeable known glacial erratics, with an estimated age of over 2 billion years. It’s less than a five minute walk from the entrance and is ideal for those looking for a leisurely and peaceful walk/hike in the woods.
Interestingly, on the path to the left of the boulder, we happened upon an expressive “rock snake” created by a family, which has been generously added to by the community and contains hundreds of hand-painted rocks with various positive images and messages. 

National Air Force Museum
Spanning over 16 acres and eclipsing 75,000 square feet, the majestic National Air Force Museum is a spectacular slight, with over 30 aircraft on display inside and out.
Walk back in time and learn about various types of aircrafts, their history and significance to the Canadian Air Force. 
Impressively, the hangar you walk into was built around the massive Halifax to house it and is a key piece in the broad collection of Canadian aviation history.
With its rich history, It’s easy to see why many visitors flock here.

Trent-Severn Waterway
This historic waterway, operated by Parks Canada as a national historic site, creates a canal route for recreational boating that spans 386 kilometres from Lake Ontario to Georgian Bay. Boats enter the waterway from the west by passing through the Murray Canal, which connects Lake Ontario to the Bay of Quinte, and then entering Lock 1 in Trenton. While there are more involved locks further along in the system, there’s a tranquil simplicity to whiling away an hour or so at this single lock watching the boats go by. Bring a picnic lunch and let the kids delight in learning how the lock works as they watch it in action. 

Downtown Quinte West
We found something to love in every town we visited, but for downtown areas, it was Trenton that stole our hearts. The Grind and Vine is a hip café that, as the name suggests, serves wine in the afternoons and coffee all day to please all palates. There are some amazing treats here as well, including for special diets: we’ll absolutely go out of our way to have the gluten-free and vegan peanut butter chocolate tart again! Across the street, Pieces Board Game Café was a standout addition to our afternoon, where we enjoyed intensely competitive games of giant Connect Four and giant Jenga. We missed dining at Tomasso’s Italian Grille, which has a riverfront patio that’s highly recommended, and there’s a Harry Potter-themed shop called The Geek Shack whose opening hours never quite aligned with our visits. But a stroll along the river makes for a great way to end the day, or you can start it with a farmers’ market on Wednesday and Saturday mornings from May to October.

Belleville

Fina Vista Farm e-bike tour and Sager Conservation Area
Regardless of your cycling proficiency, the Fina Vista Farm e-bike tour, a touch north of Bellville in Stirling,  provides a wonderful outdoor adventure through the Oak Hills region.
Safely pedalling on retro-styled electric bicycles along winding roads, farms and water views with an experienced guide lets you enjoy the country air and enjoy the area from a unique perspective.
Our tour guide and co-owner, Ernie, was friendly, informative and ensured our group was well-versed in how our e-bikes operated, which led to a thoroughly enjoyable ride.
Midway through the two-hour ride, we stopped at Sager Conservation Area and took a short 10 minute walk through a cleared trail to soak in the aerial views from the 30 foot high lookout tower. There’s signage on all four sides letting you know where and what you’re looking at and while the nearly 50-step climb may seem daunting, the reward is worth it.

Hampton Inn & Suites by Hilton Bellville
To recharge and relax between adventures, the Hampton Inn & Suites by Hilton Bellville was where we called home during our Bay of Quinte experience. Our King Studio suite was spacious, the bed quite comfortable with enough pillows for both of us, and there’s a desk to get caught up on work between attractions and meals.
Conveniently located off the 401, this recently-built lodging Includes are free wi-fi and parking, a hot breakfast, a pool and other common amenities to make your stay enjoyable. 

Zwick's Centennial Park
The best reason to visit the Bay of Quinte is to maximize your time by the water, and Zwick’s Park offers plenty of ways to do just that. My daughter dubbed Belleville “the city of awesome parks” after a recent visit, thanks mainly to the enormous playground here that can keep little ones busy for hours. Pop-ups On the Bay runs on weekends during summer, where a rotating selection of local vendors take over stalls built out of shipping containers and painted with colourful murals. And there’s always the option to keep it simple and go for a stroll or a bike ride along the park’s waterfront trails.

Belleville’s food scene
There are great restaurants throughout the region, but Belleville is the clear epicentre of the Bay of Quinte’s food scene. The Lark is set in a fresh and modern space and is best known for its inventive cocktails and small rotating menu made in part with locally sourced ingredients. Some customer-favourite cocktails are even available pre-mixed to enjoy at home. Chilangos offers Mexican food at its finest, made even better by the ability to sample so much variety in one meal. We tried a flight of margaritas—they’re all tasty, but the spicy lime jalapeño is where it’s at—along with tortilla chips with three different sauces, tamales, and a variety of tacos. Linguine’s is a Belleville staple, serving classical Italian food on Highway 62 for more than 20 years. We had lunch at The Boathouse and enjoyed their seafood specialties from indoors as we rode out a thunderstorm, but the extensive patio has great views over Belleville Harbour. Head to the Harbour Café for classic and unfussy homestyle breakfasts, or try Birdy's Fine Casual Dining to sit on the patio and enjoy a variety of options, including a full vegan breakfast and gluten-free adjustments for no extra charge.

Tyendinaga

Mohawk Landing Ceremony. Between Belleville and Napanee is Tyendinaga Mohawk Territory, which is home to the Kenhtè:ke Kanyen'kehà:ka (Mohawks of the Bay of Quinte). The Mohawks arrived in this area on May 22, 1784, when roughly 125 people landed in canoes near Deseronto, displaced from their ancestral homeland in New York State during the American Revolution for being allies of the British. Each year on or near this date, a ceremony is held commemorating their safe arrival, including a thanksgiving recitation in Mohawk and offerings of tobacco to the Creator. Understanding that reconciliation can never happen without truth, we gratefully attended this year’s ceremony and appreciated the chance to educate ourselves on the history of the Tyendinaga Mohawk Territory and its people.

Napanee

Waterfront River Pub and Terrace
Originally built as a brewery in 1857, and abandoned for several years, the Waterfront River Pub and Terrace reopened in 2013 after a thorough overhaul.
Steph and I will opt for a patio as often as possible and our outdoor table overlooking the Napanee River was a quaint backdrop to a tasty meal. Burgers, sandwiches, wraps salads and soups adorn the menu and can accommodate gluten and dairy-free requests.

Napanee Falls
As a bonus attraction, stop by the Napanee Falls where the water spills over limestone and creates an appearance of steps as it descends. 

Loyalist Trading Company
When we found out the Loyalist Trading Company had goat feedings on their roof, it was a harmonious “yes!” to stop in. This cozy family-owned store offers up locally made food and wares is located 10 minutes from the Glenora Ferry. We were fortunate enough to have the resident goats, Grover and Lenny, be coaxed onto the roof as food was lifted to them via a clever pulley system.
This cute store has knick-knacks and practical items for visitors, surrounded by warm, friendly service.
Come for the small-town charm, stay for the cute goats!

Bay of Quinte wineries
Prince Edward County is well-known for its wineries, but what’s less well-known is there’s a small but growing mini-region on the mainland, just south of Napanee on Loyalist Parkway. When approaching the area from the east, you can stop in at these locations, follow the Parkway westbound to the Glenora ferry, then continue your tour in the County. The three wineries currently operating here are the subject of this issue’s Decanting Digest wine feature, which you can find here.

Planning your adventure in the Bay of Quinte is easy by starting at bayofquinte.ca