Decanting Digest - Burgundy on the Bench
Chardonnay’s roots may be in the French wine region of Burgundy, but this classic varietal can also be found in vineyards across Southern Ontario. One of the appellations most prized for its Chardonnay is the Niagara Escarpment. From Beamsville to St. Catharines, the protective cliff faces and limestone-rich soil provide ideal growing conditions despite the area’s cooler than average climate. As a result, this stretch of wine country regularly turns out world-class, award-winning examples.
But even within this region, there can be significant variations. Differing seasonal air temperatures and soil composition mean that vineyards that are right across the road from one another can produce very different wines.
To explore this, we opened up three bottles of oaked Chardonnay, each from the same year—2020, to be precise, which was a banner season for Niagara—but demonstrating three different sub-appellations on the Niagara Escarpment. These are but a few examples of the wonderful Chardonnays to be found on the Bench, each with its own influences from nature and winemaker interpretation.
Malivoire 2020 Mottiar Chardonnay
Beamsville Bench, Ontario
$34.95 for 750 mL, at the winery or malivoire.com
The Beamsville Bench is the northernmost of the three sub-appellations we’re examining here. It receives warmer breezes off the lake deeper into the growing season, and the Escarpment’s steep climb keeps that warm air circulating well among the vines. Choosing a Chardonnay to represent the Beamsville Bench is a very tall order: Malivoire alone currently offers six different Chardonnays, including a skin-fermented example (also known as orange wine.) After deliberation, we landed on the mid-priced Mottiar Chardonnay, which teases with delicate aromas of green apple, vanilla, and coconut, then bursts onto the scene with a palate rich in tropical flavours of pineapple and passionfruit with a lightly toasted coconut finish from subtle oak. Warming yet refreshing, it would be a perfect complement to a grazing board of hard cheeses, nuts, and dried fruits.
Score: 8.5/10.
Flat Rock Cellars 2020 The Rusty Shed Chardonnay
Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario
$35.15 for 750 mL, at the winery or shop.flatrockcellars.com
Continue further south along the Escarpment and you’ll reach the Twenty Mile Bench. It looks similar to the Beamsville Bench from the highway, but the top of the Escarpment slopes a little more gently and the lake breeze has cooled somewhat by the time it arrives here, which alters the growing environment. The Rusty Shed Chardonnay from Flat Rock Cellars has received more oak influence in production, which comes through on the nose with a prominent melange of toasty and tropical aromas. The palate is fuller in body with flavours that range from butter to vanilla and toasted coconut while citrus and tropical fruit play a supporting role, offering a highly traditional Chardonnay flavour profile. Enjoy it with roasted chicken or turkey with all the fixings.
Score: 8/10.
Westcott Vineyards 2020 Estate Chardonnay
Vinemount Ridge, Ontario
$29.95 for 750 mL, at the winery or westcottvineyards.com
To explore the final sub-appellation on our tour, we need to climb to the top of the Escarpment to Vinemount Ridge. The air becomes cooler yet again here, and vineyards receive less protection from the elements, which can be challenging for growing grapes that want longer summers like Chardonnay. Nonetheless, Westcott Vineyards perseveres with award-winning results: their 2020 Estate Chardonnay was not only a gold medal winner at the National Wine Awards but also scored a bronze medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards. A sharp minerality punctuates the nose along with lemon and a gentle waft of oak, while pineapple and a light kiss of toasted coconut grace the palate with a creamy mouth feel and a long, beautifully balanced finish. This is one of the best values you’ll find in an Ontario Chardonnay; revel in this work of art on its own, or pair it with a roasted butternut squash soup topped with cream and toasted pumpkin seeds.
Score: 9.5/10.
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