When Stars Align: Family Road Tripping in New Hampshire’s White Mountains

A miracle. All the stars had aligned. Actually, it wasn’t the celestial bodies, but our schedules that had serendipitously fallen into place.  Now that our kids were adults at 18 and 21, their school and work schedules meant our time off never coincided. So my mouth fell open when I realized that the holiday break stretched into the first week of January. For all of us. 

Where to go? 

The White Mountains of New Hampshire was a natural choice. Part of the Appalachians, these jagged, granite mountains are arguably the most ruggedly beautiful in Eastern North America. They encompass 86 peaks, 48 of which are over 4000 feet with the iconic Mount Washington towering over them all at 6,288 feet. About 800,000 acres of this alpine wilderness form the White Mountain National Forest, a federally protected park, offering a smorgasbord of recreational activities in all four seasons.

Mountain Tramping

The region has been revered for its hiking ever since the mid-nineteenth century when Victorian writers, artists and tourists visited in droves. A local newspaper reported in 1899 that “mountain tramping has become quite a fad among ladies and they are encouraged in it by their brothers, their cousins and their uncles.” I’d like to think it was the sublimity of the mountains themselves and not just the sway of male relatives that spurred these ladies to trek up mountains.

A hike to the Flume Gorge at Franconia Notch State Park was our family’s first adventure in the Granite State (New Hampshire’s nickname) and we were instantly enamoured. The lime green moss that covered the giant boulder contrasted against the dark green of the pines and the branches of the hardwoods. The trail led to the gorge and after climbing down a small ladder, we were on the shores of a gushing waterfalls that we had all to ourselves.

With over 6000 kilometers of trails, there are endless hiking opportunities to be had but a few to add to your list include: Diana’s Bath, Crystal Cascades, Mount Chocorua and Blue Job Mountain Loop.

A Grand Family Resort

At the turn of the 20th century, there were approximately 30 grand hotels in New Hampshire, where wealthy socialites frolicked away the summer. Few remain today. But the Omni Mount Washington endures as grand as ever, its stately architecture nobly standing in the midst of the snow-covered mountains.

Extensive renovations over the years have maintained its glory and ensured that every modern comfort and amenity is available to its guests. Outdoor actives on their expansive acreage are also a huge draw with golf and hiking in the summer and sleigh rides, cross-country and alpine skiing in winter. Families return year after year, said spokesperson, Craig Clemmer:

 “The hotel’s passion is really about family, about multi-generational travel and spending time together.”

This Canadian family loved our time at this elegant but comfortable property. For myself the highlights were our scrumptious family meal together at Stickney’s Restaurant and the mountain views that seemed to greet us wherever we happened to be in the hotel. For our grown-up kids it was all about the downhill skiing.

Skiing in the White Mountains

Owned by the Omni Mount Washington, Bretton Woods has New Hampshire’s largest ski area with over 400 acres of skiing and snowboarding on 63 trails and 35 glades. Their recently added 8-passenger gondola was a smooth and comfortable way to reach the top. And even non-skiers can ride it to admire the views or lunch at Rosebrook Lodge. If Nordic skiing is more your style there’s over 100 kms of groomed trails, including a higher-altitude loop, accessible by ski lift.

Loon Mountain is another stellar choice for families, with a friendly atmosphere and also lots of options for less avid skiers. We tried their snow tubing, which was far from ordinary, equipped with brakes, steering and a ski lift to bring you to the top of the run. 

Mountain Adventures

At Alpine Adventures we hopped into a Pinzgauer, a six-wheel-drive Austrian military vehicle, for on off-road thrill ride into the snow-dusted forest.

“This vehicle will go through anything,” our guide announced as he reversed up a snowy hill. We held on tight as we bounced through the mountainous terrain, stopping at look-out points and a treehouse, where we warmed up and watched as zip liners flew through the trees on the adventure company’s cool winter ziplining course.

Our sleigh ride at Nestlenook Farm was a more relaxing excursion. With hot cider in gloves and sleigh bells ringing, we clip-clopped through the picturesque 65-acre estate that stretches along Ellis River. When conditions are right, there’s also ice skating on Emerald Lake.

Kanc Winter Magic

Referred to affectionately as ‘the Kanc’ by locals, the famed Kancamagus Highway (Hwy 112) is a scenic byway beloved by bikers and motorists. We set off on it from Lincoln to North Conway  blithely unaware what a treat was in store for us.

It had snowed all night and the mountains and forests were covered in a blanket of fresh, white powder. The higher we drove, the more enchanting the scenery became until I could stand it no longer.

“Stop the car!” I pleaded. We parked the car at the next stop, which happened to be the Hancock Trailhead. As we started to walk, surrounded by a canopy of white-dressed forest, I thought we had climbed out of the back of a wardrobe and into the land of Narnia. Our own Jack Frost magical moment felt even more miraculous than our schedules coinciding for a family road trip.

When you go

Getting there: From Mississauga, it’s an 8.5 hour-drive to White Mountains. Flying to Portland or Boston and renting a car (approximately a 2-hour drive) is also an option. 

Stay: In addition to our resort getaway at the Omni Mount Washington, we also stayed at the family-friendly Holiday Inn Express & Suites in Lincoln and Home2 Suites by Hilton in North Conway. Both offered very comfortable accommodation, pools, complimentary breakfasts and were conveniently located near local attractions. 

Dine:  Our family faves included: Fabyan’s Station Restaurant in Bretton Woods for its BBQ feast in a vintage train depot; Moon Bakery and Café in Lincoln with its straight-out-of-the-oven fresh pastries and breads; the Woodstock Inn Brewery served up pub favourites in a fun atmosphere with live music; and Christmas Farm Inn in North Conway, where we thoroughly enjoyed our last meal of the trip with their combination of fine dining tastes and a cozy farmhouse atmosphere.